Extended Itinerary - London to Istanbul 43 weeks

The Route described here can be followed on detailed maps such as:
Michelin 953 (North & West), Michelin 954 (North & East) and
Michelin 955 (South & Central)
Click Map for larger view
More photographs to be added by way of illustration shortly

Whilst the emphasis of this Overview is necessarily on the places visited the flavour of Africa is really gained from the entire overland experience.

This involves the driving itself - through villages ( and more often than not exchanging waves with the inhabitants!) & the ever changing landscapes as well as daily routines of finding bread and food in the markets, filling up with water , washing clothes, asking directions, taking strolls, drinking in the local bar and so on.

Every day is an opportunity to encounter aspects of Africa - even an unexpected tyre change is an opportunity to exchange pleasantries with passing villagers.

The trip runs at a measured pace; some days there is no travelling but in view of the distances involved there are bound to be some long day stretches.

As many camping areas in West & Central Africa tend to be in poor shape we rely on bush camping much of the time.

The route can be followed with a general map of Africa (Bartholomew’s or Collins) although Michelin nos. 953, 954 & 955 provide far more detail.

Normally we would expect to visit the vast majority of the places mentioned but this is subject to change according to local conditions.

We meet at Dover. From there the tour will take 3 -5 days to travel through France and Spain to Algeciras. From there we will organise a ferry across to the African Continent and if time permits spend some hours in Gibraltar.

We stock up with food and drink (duty free) at the Spanish enclave of Ceuta before crossing the land border into Morocco.

Morocco

via Tetouan - Chefchaouen - Ouazzane - Souk-du-Rharb - Rabat - Meknes - Volublis - Fes - Azroun - Midelt - Er-Rachidia - Todra - Ouarzazate - Marrakesch - Essaouira - Agadir - Laayoune - Dakhla - border

General

French & Arabic speaking although English widely understood in the main centres. The currency is the Moroccan dirham divided into centimes. Islamic culture is reflected everywhere from Mosques, Minarets and Marabouts (tombs of holy men) to the strict segregation of the sexes in public life. Nevertheless, Moroccans are used to tourists - but that doesn't mean that one should be unaware of the risk of causing gratuitous offence through inappropriate dress or behaviour.

Morocco is the ideal starting point for the traveller to Africa. It is welcoming, colourful and stimulating. The shopping is different and fascinating - open-air markets are piled high with rugs, chased brass & copper, woodwork, leatherwork, ceramics and Berber jewellery. As across Africa, bargaining is a way of life . Thus your most useful ally is patience!

The hamman - highly sociable hot-water baths is an experience definitely recommended as are the scrub-downs which will certainly get rid of any ingrained dirt (would that we had these later in the trip)!
Moroccan cuisine is well-flavoured without being over-fiery - try harira, m'choui and couscous with spicy lamb tajine. 'Moroccan whisky , that is, sweet mint tea, is the Moroccan drink of choice, but alcohol is fairly freely available.

Morocco’s geography manages to combine sand, sea and snow. To the north, the mountains separate it from its neighbour, Algeria and the southern coast stretches to the edge of the Western Sahara.
It is a bird-watcher's paradise, the already varied & colourful indigenous bird population being augmented by north/south migration.

Route

We call at the delightful hill town of Chefchaoun and proceed to the administrative capital Rabat where we have to spend a few days obtaining visas for countries further down the line; we use that time to familiarise ourselves with this new cultural landscape and to explore the older parts of the city without the harassment which is sometimes a feature of the more tourist-orientated places.

We pass through fertile plains growing olives, vines and citrus fruits to Meknes - developed in 17th century by the despotic Sultan Ismail. This Imperial City had several buildings of note but particularly impressive are the gateways set into its high walls, including the monumental Bab el-Mansour. From there we visit the site of the largest and best preserved Roman ruins in Morocco. Volubilis dates largely from the 2nd and 3rd centuries AD and is well-known for its stunning mosaics, somehow more meaningful when seen in situ like this than in a Museum.

On to the oldest of the walled imperial cities, Fès with its an air of somewhat faded grandeur. The medina of Fès el-Bali is one of the largest and most complex medieval cities in the world. The network of narrow streets contain schools, mosques, ordinary houses & palaces as well as shops and rather noxious dye-pits and tanneries - there is every chance that we would get lost in the labyrinthine alleys without a guide.

Leaving Fes, we travel up hill through Azrou turning off at Midelt toward Er-Rachidia and then Tinerhir. The ascent to Todra and the Gorge is as spectacular as the Gorge is dramatic - it is some 300m high but only 10m wide at its narrowest point. We explore the surrounding terrain by foot with plenty of time to relax in a bedouin tent where we enjoy a traditional Moroccan meal.

We also stop off at Dades Gorge - similar spectacular scenery. Fossils, including ammonites are sold on the road-side.

From Ouarzazate we go on to the very photogenic Kasbah of Ait Benhadden where parts of Lawrence of Arabia and The Sheltering Sky were filmed and then head east again over the switchback Tizi -n-Tichka pass to Marrakesch - the lively former capital justly famed for its markets and festivals. Its heart is the Place Djemaa el-Fna, a huge square in the old city. Rows of open-air food stalls are set up here lit by lamp-light. Jugglers, storytellers, snake charmers and conjurers take over the rest of the space. Although there is a camp site here, we like to take rooms in a town centre hotel - or possibly sleep on the roof - to soak up the atmosphere.
Exploring the narrow souks is a favourite pastime, as is resisting the blandishments of the ever-present carpet-salesmen!

To the Atlantic coast at Essaouira, a charming older-type fishing port (and a bit of a hippie hang out) where great seafood is on the menu - as is wind-surfing if that's your bag! By contrast Agadir is a nondescript touristy sort of place so we don't linger.

South to Laayoune and the long haul to Dakhla which is located just north of the Tropic of Cancer on a sandy peninsula - many ships have foundered on the seaward side and their wrecked carcasses remain stranded. Here we wait for the twice weekly convoy that takes us the 360 kms through the still-disputed territory of Western Sahara to Mauretania.

via Nouadihbou - Nouakchott - Boutilimit - Aleg - Sangraffa - Kiffa - Kouroudjel - Kankossa

General

Hassaniya Arabic & French speaking.
The currency is the ouguiya (um)
A stricter Muslim country than Morocco hence it is officially "dry".

Mauritania isn't known as a tourist destination being poor and mostly desert. It is a harsh environment of shifting sand, dunes and rocky plateaux. The climate is dry all year round; rainfall is infrequent and sparse.

Although it is this very desolation that keeps mainstream tourism away, travellers learn to love Mauritania for the way it somehow fulfils romantic images of desert spaces - towns half blanketed in sand, nomads in colourful tents, lunar-like landscapes.

Another problem that society faces is the underlying ethnic conflict between 'white' and 'black' moors and black Africans - the latter often descended from haratin - freed slaves. Only officially banned 20 years ago, it is suspected that slavery persists in Mauretania to this day.

Route

Located on the eastern side of a peninsula is Nouadihbou whose economy is based on a flourishing fishing industry and iron ore brought in from the interior by way of the longest freight trains in the world. We follow the 'Atlantic Route' through to West Africa - believe it or not this is the main Trans-Africa highway and it is from here we start to venture into real desert conditions. The route south depends on whether we have to pass through the Parc National du Banc d'Arquin or around it but either way, there is a section where we follow the narrow coastal strip - this means driving along the beach itself with dunes on one side and the Atlantic on the other - not a great place to break down as there's little leeway if the tide comes in! The Parc is home to millions of aquatic birds and October- January is a good time to see them nesting - although a boat is needed to get to the nesting sites.

The overnight camp on the shore is memorable - dolphins can be seen out at sea and lobsters are brought to us by local fishermen. It can be unexpectedly windy - after all there is nothing between us and the American land-mass! It is this wind that keeps the inland dunes on the move and why it would be difficult to find a way through the ever-changing hinterland.

Arriving in Nouakchott, we replenish water supplies, have the truck spray-washed for salt residues and hit the only internet facilities in the country!

When Nouakchott was created in 1960, the site was many days walk from the desert, but is now entirely surrounded by the Sahara, with sand piling up against walls and fences like snow drifts.
We follow the sealed road out of town but just when we're getting used to a smooth ride we hit the broken tar and the road deteriorates - and will only improve spasmodically for the rest of the journey. There are many alternative routes more or less across country between Nouakchott and the border of Mali at Kankossa and which is used depends on local conditions. Sometimes it may be the tracks to Kiffa and Ayoun d'Atrous to the border at Kobenni . Whichever, the tracks are indistinct, food is scarce but good water is reasonably available from artesian wells.

via Nioro* Diema - Didjeni *- Bamako - Fama - Segou - San - Djenne - Mopti - Bankass - Koro (border) * the route is variable - it might be Kayes - Bafoulabe - Kita - Bamako (travelling north of Mopti to Timbuctoo & Gao is not considered safe at present)

General

French speaking again but the main African language is Bamana.
The currency is the central african franc (the cfa ). Until the advent of the euro , this was linked to the french franc which is interchangeable between countries also in the cfa system.

Still a Muslim society but a noticeable integration of Arab and black races and culture. One realises that women have been absent from the scene - wonderful to see those big black mamas bossing everybody in the markets!

Most tourism is fly-in so although local people are used to westerners they tend to be at the wealthy end. However impecunious we think we are, we are fabulously wealthy by local standards - Mali is after all one of the poorest countries in the world.

Mali's major geographical feature is the Niger River, which loops up to the edge of the Sahara and back to the Atlantic. In the upper southern region the rivers join to form a rich inland delta and agriculture depends upon regular flooding. But northern Mali is rapidly being swallowed up by the desert, its rapid desertification due to on-going droughts, over-grazing, topsoil erosion, harsh winds, and the scavenging of trees for firewood.

Musicians such as singer Salif Keita, guitarist Ali Farke Toure and griot chanteuse Ami Koita have brought the attention of the west to Maliain music. This is part of a broader 'Afropop' scene which is merely a term to cover the immense and rich variety of contemporary African music.

Route

Locally, they say that all tracks lead to Bamako - how true - we follow rough & sandy pistes from Kayes to Kita or possibly via Nioro & Didijeni , all of which ultimately lead onto corrugated dirt tracks into Bamako.

via Tiou- Ouahigouya - Tougan - Dedougou- Bobo-Dioulasso - Banfora - Niangoloko (border)

General

French speaking - the local language is More, spoken by the Mossi people, whose Kingdom once extended all over the region.

The currency is the cfa.

Formerly known as Upper Volta because of the three Volta rivers that flow through it discharging into the Volta Lake in neighbouring Ghana. The waters attract black fly so that this country is now notorious for its high incidence of river blindness (fortunately for us not something that affects the casual traveller).

Most of Burkina is bush and scrub with the beginnings of that so-characteristic-of- Africa red laterite soil. To the north the vegetation thins out to sandy dunes as it approaches the Sahara but the south, opens up into forests and sugar cane fields.

December - February are the coolest months and the harmattan winds keep the skies hazy.

Route
Unless we need to go there, we skirt the capital Ouagoudougou (pronounced Wah-gah-dou-gou), known internationally for its the annual Film Festival. We cut south through minor roads and several unremarkable towns whilst appreciating how the landscape turns greener by the mile. The legendary 'upside down' tree, the Baobab, (so-called because the branches look more like roots) is commonplace in this region. Many specimens are thought to be over 2000 years old. Another common sight is the Sausage Tree whose huge pods can weigh up to 3 kilos.
Near Satiri we take pirogues & a picnic out on the Mare aux Hippopotames - close encounters with hippos! Local food is usually a fish, chicken or peanut based spicy stew - wash it down with the universal non-alcoholic drink loosely called 'ginger beer' - which may or may not blow your brains with the amount of ginger!

We call in on Bobo-Dioulasso, a laid-back, friendly town: tree-lined and shaded streets, sidewalk cafes and thriving market places. A great place for picking up mud cloth, carvings, masks and all sorts of interesting bits and pieces.

In this relaxed atmosphere we can learn a game of the universal game of Mankala - similar to backgammon, this is a major pastime all over the continent and to be able to play it is an effective way to get to socialise with local peoples.

The Bobo tribes people are known for their 'butterfly' masks and if we are lucky we will see something of the Fete des Masques which takes place seven times a year.

There are several interesting places around Bobo and Banfora - to the south east is La Mare aux Poissons Sacres de Dufora - sacred fish pools set in a crevice below the cliffs where chickens are sacrificed to the resident catfish!
Rather more off-the-beaten-track is Cascades de Kafiguela - a series of waterfalls right in the bush. To the west is the said-to-be-safe bathing area at Lac Guinuette in the green of the Kou forest and then another favourite, Lac Tengrela, the place to go for hippo and bird -watching as well as enjoying a drink at the local buvette

via Ouangolodougou - Ferkessedougou - Korhogo - Boundiali - Odienne - Touba - Man - Daloa - Yamoussoukro - Abidjan - Grand Basam - Aboisso - Elubo (border)

General

French speaking + Dyula and Baoule.
The currency is the cfa.

Côte d'Ivoire is bordered on the south by the Atlantic Ocean is notable for an inland lagoon that starts at the Ghanaian border stretching some 300km along the coast. Except for the western hill country around Man, inland Côte d'Ivoire is mostly flat and deforestation a problem.

These zones are reflected in the climate - humid and tropical along the coast and dry in the north. From November to March it is hot and dry but, as in Burkina Faso, from early December to February, the harmattan winds blow sand south from the Sahara, reducing visibility in the northern regions.

Generally, there is a better infrastructure than we have seen further north.

Though the country has two of the largest Catholic cathedrals in the world, only a small minority of people are Christian (and most of those are Protestant)! The majority practise traditional religions involving ancestral worship. Juju priests tell fortunes and dispense gris gris (charms that ward off evils).

The art of Côte d'Ivoire is renowned. It is distinct to each ethnic group ; three tribal groups stand out - the Baoulé, the Dan (or Yacouba) and the Senoufo . All are known for their wooden carvings especially masks, and dance is also a very important element.

Route

We enter the country in the north at Ouangolodougou but pretty soon veer off west toward Korhogo and Bouandiali. We travel on a circuitous route taking in the villages around Korhogo, the centre of Senoufo culture, where can be found beautiful baskets, musical instruments and woven cloth. Also the chance to try out the local palm wine (banqui) or millet beer (pimente).

Interesting caves near Ferantella and on to Touba and the Circuit du Zaala to the town of Man, where we arrange to witness some of the traditional dances including the 'Dance of the Masks' and Yacouba stilt dancing.

At nearby Mount Tonkoui are pretty Cascades and a liana (vines) bridge spanning the river.

We can also hike up the steep, tooth-shaped mountain Le Dent de Man - said to be the guardian angel of the region.

We sweep back east to Yamoussoukro , the birthplace of the former President Houphouët-Boigny who spent untold millions on this pseudo-city in the forest. It became the capital in 1983, but Abidjan is still where it all happens! The centrepiece is the Basilique de Notre Dame de la Paix, an almost exact replica of St Peter's in Rome. Good views from the Cupola.

We can also catch the crocodile feeding at the Presidential Palace!

We are getting into pineapple country here - a just-right Ivorian pineapple is certainly a different taste sensation to that of the sorry specimens we are used to! Fried plantains are a street snack favourite along with the ubiquitous brochette.

On southward through the rainforest to Abidjan, located on the Ebrie lagoon - a water taxi is a good way to get to its lesser-known corners. Treichville is the area for nightlife and the music scene. However, we usually stay up the coast near the old colonial capital, Grand Bassam, picturesquely set among coconut palms. Beware those falling coconuts! And swimming can be dangerous here on account of tidal rips.

via Elubo - Axim - - Dixcove - Takoradi - Elmina - Kumasi -Nkawkaw - Accra - Denu (border)

General

Formerly known as the Gold Coast, this is our first English-speaking country! A bewildering number of local languages but the main one is Akan. The word akwaaba is one you will quickly recognise - it means welcome!
Two main tribal groups are the Ashanti and the Fante.

The currency is the cedi. Ghana has opened up its currency and foreign exchange can now be freely traded.
Ghana has a hot and dry north and a hot and humid south.

Most of the country is made up of wooded hill ranges, wide valleys and low-lying coastal plains. A large chunk was swallowed by Lake Volta in the 1960's, when the Volta River was dammed and the lake swelled to become one of the largest in Africa.

Following Tony Blair's recent visit, Ghana was described in newspaper article as "scenic, inexpensive, hassle free, deeply religious, a little eccentric and courteous". That's about right!

One could go on to say that what it lacks in the wildlife of its East African counterparts, Ghana makes up in history and humanity. It deserves to be on the tourist agenda - but luckily for us it isn't - yet!

Route

We enter the country in the north and head south to the Atlantic Coast.

The atmospheric coastal towns are enlivened by the fleets of colourfully painted fishing canoes surfing into harbour, Fante fishermen at the helm. At Elmina we visit St Georges Castle - now a World Heritage site - and Fort St Jago , two of many forts of Potuguese, Dutch and British origin which sprang up during the 17th century, when European powers were competing for a piece of the e slave trade action. Many of these old buildings retain disturbing vestiges of slavery in the way of manacles and chains attached to the walls.

At Jukwa , the Kakum Forest Reserve is home to several endangered species including the forest elephant. A highlight is the walk on the aerial walkway suspended by a network of ropes & cables some twelve stories (40m) above the ground . Tree-top platforms give a monkey-eye view of the hidden leafy world of the forest canopy. The night walks are deservedly popular.

Inland toward Kumasi by way of Obuasi where just possibly we may be able to talk our way into a tour of the surface gold mines and smelting.

Kumasi was the centre of the Ashanti Kingdom and is another place that has a tremendously lively not to say raucous market spreading all over the centre of the town - the original town was razed by the British in one of the Ashanti wars but there are fascinating Museums & Palaces which shed light on Ashanti history.

Local crafts draw on a rich cultural history; several craft villages are within easy reach of Kumasi including Bonwire - famous for the production of kente cloth - Ahwia - wood-carvers - Ntsono - adinkra cloth and Kurofuforium - brass casting.

After working up a sweat after a day or two in the town we are glad to drop in at the serene crater lake of Bosumtwi , reportedly bilharzia -free. The local fishermen use coconut shells to skull their tiny craft along the water.

We travel further towards Accra on the coast where we find excellent beach resorts famous for their seafood (prawns with rice & red chilies for £2; lobster & chips for £3 - can't be bad). This is a good place to learn some traditional drumming rhythms at one of the excellent drumming schools. Huge mangoes are piled high alongside more exotic items such as smoked cane rat. Live land-snails destined for the pot are knotted together with baler twine (to stop them disappearing altogether)!

Finally, if time permits before leaving Ghana, we travel north of Akosombo Dam into the eastern rainforest near Hohoe and the Wli Falls, home to thousands of fruit bats as well as a 70m cascade of water.

via Denu - Lome - Kpalime - Notse - Tohoun - border

General

The main African languages here are Ewe, Kabye & Mina - but French remains the lingua franca.

Togo is a geographical curiosity in that it has a coastline only 56 kms wide but the country is 540 kms long! Even so, it manages to contain a variety of landscape with coastal palm groves, mountainous centre and northern savannah.

Currency is again the cfa.

It is dry over the winter months and the dusty, dry harmattan wind blows from the north in December/January.
Culturally, the main ethnic groups are opposites. For example, the Ewé consider the birth of twins a great blessing and makes offerings to figurines thought to embody the twin spirit - other groups consider the birth of twins to be a grave misfortune. Similarly, in the south the Ewé eat cat and consider anyone who eats dog a barbarian, while in the north the Kabyé eat dog but not cat!

Route

Kpalime is in beautiful hill country producing coffee and cocoa. Kente cloth is a good buy at its market. Those who like climbing may like to tackle the nearby 1000m Pic d'Agou for a fantastic view of the surrounding countryside.
It doesn't take long to reach Lome from here. Small the country may be but its capital makes up for it in liveliness. The Gran Marche is a huge indoor market , the 2nd and 3rd floors of which are piled high with wax-cloth sold by the pagna (2 metre length) by the famed Nana Benz (women traders who have done so well they are said to all drive a Mercedes Benz). The Passage des Arts is the place for curios and souvenirs. At the Village Artisanat , wood-carvers and other artists work whilst we watch.

Knock-down price (duty free) branded spirits are sold everywhere as are roasted peanuts and hot dough-balls.
At nearby Akodessewa is the Marche des Feticheurs (fetish market) where may be found gris gris and all sorts of bizarre ingredients of traditional medicine.

Readily accessed by a shared pirogue is Togoville, located on the northern shore of Lake Togo. This is the centre of the Voodoo cult in Togo. In essence, Voodoo is a belief that sees an interconnectedness of the human and spirit worlds - leading to the worship of the spirit in all things. It is widely practiced here and in neighbouring Benin.

In contrast to Ivory Coast & Ghana, the beach is protected by a reef at low tide so we can enjoy safe swimming at our camp site.

We travel inland to Tohoun with the aim of crossing into Benin.

via Aplahou - Abomey - Adjohoun - Aliada - Ganvie - Cotonou - Porto Novo - Ketou or Idiroko (borders)

General

Same language & currency situation as Togo.

Another long and thin country although somewhat bigger than Togo. The climate is much the same but the country divides into more natural regions: - the coastal area; a plateau zone, la terre de barre; wooded savannah; hills in the northwest ( which contain the water reservoir for Benin and Niger); and the fertile river flood plains in the northeast.

This country has had the third-highest number of coups in Africa but currently has a democratically elected government.

Benin - until 1975 known as Dahomey - has a rich cultural background. It has always had a certain mystique deriving partly from the its Amazonian (elite female) fighting force maintained by the Kings of Dahomey. But the aspect of its culture that has attracted most interest is Voodoo, an animistic religion still widely practiced. Voodoo was exported to Haiti in the 19th century through the slave trade (not for nothing was this once known as The Slave Coast). The practice is still strong and fetish shrines can be seen around the countryside.

Route

We cross from Togo at Touhoun and our first call of note is Abomey once the capital of the Fon Empire. The Fon kings added to the Palace over many centuries so by the 19th century it was massive with a court of over 10,000 people. Unfortunately only a small part of the original remains standing. The Kings used art to enhance their status and so forbade artists to work outside the Palace which consequently became famous for its metalwork and Applique tapestries. The Artisans Centre has a good choice of modern applique wall-hangings and sculptures - but bargain hard.

In the south, we find the fishing village of Ganvie in among coconut plantations - we have to take a pirogue or share a motor boat to reach it as it is built entirely on stilts in the middle of Lake Nakoue. Great photo opportunities as all aspects off life are represented on the water - the village has all the facilities one would expect of a community on terra firma - bars, post office, hairdresser and clinic all of which can only be reached by boat.
The unofficial capital Cotonou is another lively spot. If you're fond of heaving huge markets, take a petit taxi to the Grand Marche de Dan Topka, - it sells everything you can think of including fetishes and cheap Johnny Walker Black Label! The Centre de l'Artisanat has lots of interesting artifacts.

One of the especially nice things about Cotonou is the number of street stalls that set up in the evenings lit by oil lamps and candles giving the otherwise humdrum place a romantic air. The beach is somewhat less romantic being polluted and with dangerous currents.

Along the coast to the west is the port of Ouidah, the Voodoo centre of Benin. It was from here that Voodoo was shipped to America and of particular interest are the Musee d'histoire and the Musee des Arts & Culture , which exhibit bizarre voodoo artefacts, and material relating to the slave trade era as well as some fascinating old photographs.

Finally, to Porto Novo, the nominal capital where the colonial buildings have definitely seen better days. There are stilted villages in the lagoon within reach of here as an alternative to visiting Ganvie.
The place of crossing into Nigeria depends on local factors but is probably at Ketou.

via Meko or Idiroko - Abeookuta - Ibadan - Oshogbo - Ilorin -Abuja - Kaduna - Kano/Jos - Bauchi - Biu - Mubi (border)

General

English-speaking. There are over 250 ethnic groups here and the country has a perpetual problem in resolving ethnic differences and trying to impose national unity.

Hausa (in the north), Yoruba (in the west) and Ibo (in the east) predominate and the situation has not been helped with the adoption in the Muslim north of sharia law.

Currency is the naira - this is strictly controlled which encourages an unofficial parallel economy. The largest denomination banknote is worth less than $1 so carrying naira around is a bit tricky!

As Nigerian cities tend to be sprawling, congested, polluted and chaotic we avoid them as far as possible! But the smaller towns across the country are pleasant to visit and full of good-humoured and helpful people. There still remain a surprising number of Reserves and National Parks.

There are countless numbers of small religious sects often combining Christianity with animism - that is, worship of ancestral spirits which protect the land and ensure tribal well-being. Many of the sacrificial rituals and juju ceremonies that use animal skulls, bones and dried insects are a way of contacting these spirits to ensure good fortune.

Nigeria has a reputation for crime and corruption but the overwhelming impression we leave with is the masses of energy and entrepreneurism looking for an outlet.

Route

We avoid Lagos and only touch on the fringes of Ibadan before heading north to Oshogbo where many of Nigeria's most famous artists live so that it has become the main centre of Nigerian art. Oshogbo is also famous for its Sacred Forest, an area in the forest that holds massive sculptures and monumental shrine complexes dedicated to different Yoruba gods, notably the river goddess of Oshun. Many of these shrines are falling into disrepair and are being reclaimed by the forest but since the 1950s, work has been ongoing to bring the shrines back to life.

A favourite overnight spot is at the centre for the performing arts, and where we are usually treated to a veritable concert of African JuJu music & dance.

Nowadays we have to make for the administrative capital Abuja to obtain visas. We go due east to Calabar Port for Cameroun visas.

We drive on through the surrounding bush and exit Nigeria at Mfum.

via Ajasso - Mount Cameroun - Limbe - Yaounde

General

There are over 130 ethnic groups in the country speaking dozens of languages and just to confuse you; Cameroun is also French and English speaking due to a complicated colonial past! The two zones are quite distinct but the French part is dominant politically and culturally.

Bamileke, Fulani and Bamoun are the main ethnic groups.

The currency is the West African franc (still the cfa but a different variety which means that although the notes are interchangeable with the central african franc, the coins are not).

Route

We cross near Mfum/Ajasso and rive for a few days through thick forest to Buea on the base of Mount Cameroun. It’s the highest mountain in west Africa and rises straight from the coast through tropical rainforest to a bare summit which is cold and windy and occasionally covered with snow. It erupts occasionally, in 1999 lava reached within 200 metres from the ocean. You can climb the mountain from Buea at around 1000m where guides and necessary porters can be hired. Debuncha at its southwest corner is the second wettest place in the world.

After visiting Douala Port and Yaounde the modern architectural capital we cross to Gabon.

via Bitam - Libreville - Lambarene - Nyanga

General

French speaking.
The currency is the cfa.

Gabon is on the Atlantic coast right on the equator. There are extensive rainforests covering most of the country. It has had steady contact with Europe since the Portuguese fist arrived in the 15 century and is much richer than most other countries in the region

Route

Leaving Yaounde, we cross into Gabon and the capital city of Libreville. Gabon is famous for it's populations of lowland gorilla, though most people prefer to see the mountain gorillas in East Africa. From the capital there are several excursions you can take into surrounding nature reserves and Africa's largest bush meat market. Leaving Libreville, we pass through Lambarene, home to the famous Dr. Albert Schweitzer, Nobel peace prize winner for founding the Lambarene Leprosy Hospital and his work with the downtrodden locals.

via Dolisie - Point Noir Port

General

French speaking, Kongo, Lingala.
The currency is the cfa.

The Congo is named after the Kongo Kingdom which extended over the whole region and tried to have diplomatic relation with Europe in the 15th century. They were refused by the Portuguese. It was a turning point in history, things might have been so different for Africa if they had had diplomatic missions in Europe instead of been carved up and exploited as colonies.

Route

We enter The Republic of Congo. Driving through bamboo forest tunnels we make our way back to the coast reaching Point Noire. Here you can visit the Jane Goodall Chimp sanctuary, or relax on the beach.
Cabinda (Angola)
We enter Cabinda the oil rich exclave of Angola with the Congo to the East and the Atlantic to the west; where you can watch the flames burning off from the offshore oil rigs.

via Muanda - Boma - Matadi Port

General

French speaking, Kongo, Lingala
The currency is the Congolese franc.

The Congo River (for a time known as Zaire River) is one of the longes and biggest rivers in the world - 4,700 km long and a massive amount of water flowing through its channels, more than all the rivers of Europe combined.

Route

We enter DR Congo crossing only 200 kilometres of the country and the mighty Congo River by a massive bridge overlooking Matadi Town; a sea port over 100km upriver from the ocean

via Noqui - Luanda - Lubango - Ondjiva

General

Portuguese speaking.
The currency is the kwanza

Portugal ruled Angola for 400 years and both countries share cultural aspects. Angola isn't known as a tourist destination, the people are similar to Brazilians in their love of life

Route

Angola only opened up to tourism in 2004, With the closure of the routes through Sudan, we started going this way through one of the largest and least visited countries in Africa.. The people are friendly and the views astounding. Driving along the red mud roads we reach the coast and the capital Luanda, its very Portuguese in its buildings and Brazilian in its beach attire with a line of beach bars and restaurants in the bay. We follow the coast passing lots of waterfalls on the way to Lubango town 2000 meters high on a plateau. It is home to the third of the great statues of Jesus; the others being in Rio and Lisbon.

via Oshikango - Etosha - Swakopmund - Fish River Canyon

General

English speaking, Afrikaans, German
The currency is the Namibian Dollar – interchangeable with South Africa Rand.

Namibia is favorite on the eco tourists list, wide open spaces, one the lowest density populated countries in the world. An old German colony and a very well run country. One of the most popular on route.
Whilst in Namibia the geographical features range from the wild and inaccessible shoreline of the Skeleton coast to huge, perfectly moulded sand dunes, deep canyons and the petrified forests and rock engravings of prehistoric Africa.

Route

Travelling south we enter Namibia at Oshikango. Always a highly anticipated highlight is Namibia's premier game park of Etosha. Centred around the shallow salty depression of Etosha Pan, the colours of the landscape are vivid, ranging from brilliant whites of the salt deposits to bright greens caused by algae growing in the wetter areas. The park has a unique series of waterholes with superb viewing vantages, which attract a continuous stream of different animals and birds. Each campsite has a floodlit water hole where you can watch rhino or even lion come to drink throughout the night.

Leaving the game park we spend the night at the pioneering Otjiotongwe Cheetah Conservation Farm where cheetah are rescued from farmland where they are in danger of being shot. It is possible to get very close to these magnificent cats and this is a rewarding experience for photographers.

We then travel through the mountainous and rugged area of Damaraland, home to the elusive desert elephant of which there are only 60 left. At the spectacular rock massif of Twyfelontein, engravings that date back to prehistoric Africa can be seen, and the Petrified Forest is scattered with fossilised tree trunks which were distributed over the area millions of years ago. Descending towards the coast the scenery changes from hot, arid desert to the windswept shores of the Atlantic Ocean and the bleak wilderness of the infamous.

We spend a few days in Swakopmund, an attractive coastal town with German influenced architecture. Here there is an abundance of exhilarating activities which range from microlighting and skydiving to riding quad bikes and sand boarding through the dunes. A seasonal highlight is fishing, from deep-sea game fishing for marlin and shark, to crayfish diving from the shoreline. Alternatively, you can relax on the beach, tour the Hansa brewery, visit the world's largest open cast uranium mine or indulge at a German patisserie or enjoy a beer at one of the town's 32 pubs.

From here we continue south and reach Namib-Naukkluft National Park. The northern area of the reserve is largely gravel plains where rain rarely falls. Here the unique welwitsia plant can be found, some of which are estimated to be 1500 years old, and which survive only on the moisture from dew. The central area of the Namib Desert is a red sea of sand and at Sossusvlei you can climb the world's highest sand dunes which rise over 300 metres. We camp at Sesriem on the edge of the dune fields from where a balloon ride can be taken to see the incredible views over part of the oldest desert on earth.

Travelling through Aus, we stop to see Namibia's population of feral horses, the only wild desert-living horses in the world which can go without water for up to five days. There is a mystery about where these highbred thoroughbreds came from, and one theory is that they were shipwrecked en route from Europe to Australia.

Travelling to the far south of the country we reach the spectacular Fish River canyon. This huge gorge is 160 kilometres long, 27 kilometres wide and up to 550 metres deep - it is a breathtaking sight and one bound to leave a lasting impression of Namibia and its incredible scenery.

via Orange River (border)- Cedarberg Mountains - Cape Wineland - Cape Town

General

English speaking + Afrikaans, Zulu, Xhosa
The currency is the rand.

The Orange River marks the border with South Africa and from here we enter West Cape Province and travel south through the flower region of Namaqualand and the Cedarberg Mountains. After visiting some of the Cape Wineland vineyards and sampling some of South Africa's finest wines, we reach the conclusion of our journey in Cape Town, the country's oldest city and possibly one of the most beautiful in the world. Here the atmosphere is relaxed and the options for sightseeing and travel through the rest of South Africa almost limitless.

We have a weeks break from the trip in Cape Town. It's a beautiful city, nestled at the foot of Table Mountain; plenty of cafes, pubs, clubs, markets and sights. You can climb the mountain or take the cable car to the top for some wonderful views of the city and the Cape Peninsula and visit Robben Island.

via South Africa - Botswana - Zimbabwe - Zambia - Malawi

The journey includes the exotic spice island of Zanzibar and the natural wonders of Victoria Falls and Lake Malawi as well as further outstanding opportunities for game watching.

In Botswana these include the vast arid expanses of the Kalahari Desert and the unique inland delta of the Okavango.

Victoria Falls is the most impressive waterfall in the world.

Departing Cape Town we head north towards Botswana and the Kalahari Desert via Kimberly. We travel along the edge of the Kalahari Desert to Maun.

From here, the scenery becomes wilder and less populated as we skirt the edges of the Makgadikadi salt pans and the Kalahari Desert. Our destination is Maun, the gateway to the Okavango Delta, a complex maze of swamps, channels, islands and lakes formed by the Okavango River on its never to be completed journey to the sea, making it the only inland Delta in the world. The waterways are filled with papyrus, waterlillies and provide a sanctuary to a large range of wildlife. We explore the heart of the Delta in traditional mekoro, dugout canoes propelled along by an experienced 'poler'. Light aircraft or helicopter flights are available providing a bird's eye view of the beautiful wetlands and herds of game.

We enter Chobe National Park, famous for its huge herds of elephants. We take an early morning game drive through the reserve, and then enjoy a relaxing cruise on the Chobe river to see more wildlife, including buffalo, crocodiles and hippos as well as smaller game and birdlife in abundance.

We arrive in early morning at Victoria Falls. This small town is justifiably known as the adrenaline sports capital of Africa. The Falls themselves are absolutely spectacular - at 1500 metres wide they span the border with Zambia and the River Zambezi drops over 100 metres, sending spray high into the air and creating a miniature rainforest. David Livingstone was the first European to discover the Falls and he wrote in his diary the famous words 'on sights as beautiful as this Angels in their flight must have gazed'.

The best way to appreciate the full magnificence of the Falls is to take a flight right over them - aptly called the Flight of the Angels, but the other options are almost limitless. There is grade 5 white water rafting on the River Zambezi, the highest permanent bungee jump in the world from the iron road/rail bridge below the Falls, horse-riding in the Zambezi National Park, tandem skydiving and canoeing on the Zambezi. The more relaxing options include an evening Sundowner Cruise to view the game on the banks of the Zambezi or you can visit the crocodile farm or simply enjoy a few cold beers in the elegant colonial surroundings of the Victoria Falls Hotel.

We cross along the south of Zambia to Lusaka the capital and stop at Pioneer camp. Then 600 kilometres to Metauke or Chipata and into Malawi

We cross the border into Malawi, a country dominated by rivers and mountains and of course Africa's 'Inland Sea', Lake Malawi. Over 500 kilometres long and sharing its shores with Mozambique, the fresh water lake is one of the largest in the world with warm temperatures and crystal clear water. It is home to hundreds of species of brightly coloured tropical fish and the snorkelling and scuba diving are superb.

We reach the capital Lilongwe, to change money and stock up Kande Beach is an idyllic spot on a private beach and has surfboards, wind surfers, paddle boats and water skiing gear available for hire. You can take a boat out to snorkel off the shores of a nearby island, or alternatively, just relax in hammocks suspended from the beachside mahogany trees and watch the cows go down to the lake for a drink. The local people at Kande invite you on a tour of their village where you can visit a local school and hospital, and even eat dinner in one of their homes. The people of Malawi are some of the most friendly and hospitable in Africa.

In Mzuzu we stock up on provisions at the local markets before returning to the shores of Lake Malawi.

We stay at Chitimba, a resort at the northern end of the lake and enjoy the wide-open beaches and gentle salt-free waters that make swimming irresistible. There is the opportunity to climb up the nearby steep escarpment overlooking the lake to visit the picturesque village of Livingstonia where a Christian mission was founded in 1894 in memory of the great Victorian explorer and missionary, David Livingstone. The museum houses many of Livingstone's original letters and records and gives a fascinating insight into his life and explorations. There are stunning views from the top of the escarpment out across the lake and you can also take a short detour to see the beautiful 300 metre high Manchewe Falls.

via Arusha - northern Game Park circuit - Arusha Namanga -

General

Currency - Tanzanian shillings. Forex bureaux will change at free market rate but banks only at the official rate!

Tanzania is experiencing a period of stability and economic growth and is generally a very law-abiding country. It is primarily known to the outside world for its world-famous National Parks, Mt Kilimanjaro and the island of Zanzibar - although there is a lot more to it than that.

The north east of the country around Arusha enjoys a temperate climate, hence the coffee and wheat estates - now joined by flower-farming for export. The hottest time is December / January with the so-called long rains due to start in April/May. However, like much of the rest of the planet, the climate is becoming increasingly unpredictable and the rains may or may not appear.

Our limited stay is centered around the town of Arusha which is currently host to the Rwandan War Crimes Tribunal yet is mainly known for its role as the gateway to the Serengeti, Manyara & Tarangire National Parks and the Ngorongoro Crater Conservation Area.

Food has a distinct Indian influence with delicious samosas available on street corners: otherwise food tends to centre around matoke (plantain) and ugali (pounded maize meal) with nyama choma (roast meat) for the more well to do. Fresh passion fruit juice beats coca-cola!

Route

Crossing the Kipengere Mountain range we enter Tanzania Heading towards the ocean, we cross the delightful small game park at Mikumi where many animals, including forest elephant, are often seen close to the road. The drive in southern Tanzania takes us through beautiful fertile countryside surrounded by dramatic mountain ranges.

The coastal city of Dar es Salaam, a busy port with a tropical climate and an excellent selection of souvenirs made from ebony. We spend a night at a beachside campsite just north of the city before taking a ferry to the exotic Spice Island of Zanzibar. Once inhabited by Indians, Chinese, Persians and Omani Arabs, the island has been influenced by many cultures and religions and was an important part of the trade route between Africa and Asia. The narrow winding streets, exquisitely carved doors and fragrant spice bazaars of the Old Town (called Stone Town) resemble parts of the Middle East whilst the idyllic, unspoilt beaches on the east side of the island are amongst the best in the Indian Ocean, and a great place to sample delicious local Swahili dishes and bountiful seafood. Elsewhere on the island, you can take a tour of the spice plantations, swim with dolphins, or visit the giant tortoises at Prison Island.

We then drive north- west through sisal plantations to Moshi where on a clear day you can see the impressive peaks of Mount Kilimanjaro. At nearly 6,000m this is the highest mountain in Africa and the highest free-standing mountain in the world.

We like to break the journey by camping overnight at a genuine Masaii village near the border. Here, elements of Masaii culture are explained, such as the importance attached to kinship and cattle and the moran (young warriors) demonstrate the stick dance - and we find that its not as easy as it looks! Our final camp near Arusha is rather more conventional. It is here that we switch to a local operator using Land Rovers or 4 x 4 Toyotas to take us up the Manyara Escarpment and across the plains via Karatu for a memorable 3-day safari to the world famous Serengeti National Park and Ngorongoro Crater Reserve.

The views from the Crater rim are spectacular - the animals appear as clusters of tiny dots on the crater floor 600m below. The Crater - an extinct volcano - is a favourite spot for wildlife as it provides permanent water and pasture. It is easy to see why this has been compared to the Garden of Eden. On the Serengeti plains, the wildlife follows seasonal rain patterns, hence the famed migration of the wildebeest. Here the thousands upon thousands of plains animals - wildebeest, zebra, gazelle and antelope give just a glimmer of an idea of the sheer volume of wildlife that existed in Africa only a century - or less - ago.

We call in at the famous Olduvai Gorge where many of the most important discoveries about man's early ancestors have been made and pause at the village of Mto-wa-Mbu (also aptly named Mosquito Creek) near Lake Manyara, to take a closer look at the fantastic array of Masaii beadwork, spears and other artefacts.

Back in Arusha, we can stroll around this attractive town - which sits right at the foot of Mt Meru (4556m) - and look out for the other arts and crafts for which Tanzania is known , most notably tinga tinga paintings and Makonde ebony carvings. Locally printed kangas (2m lengths of cloth) are colourful & cheap. As ever, bargaining is the order of the day!

The prolific wildlife and the compelling scenery in this area surely make this one of the most memorable parts of the whole trip.

The road journey from Arusha to Nairobi takes only 4 - 5 hours (excluding border formalities). Masai tribesmen and women are a common sight, wearing the characteristic red or purple blankets and carrying long spears or decorated gourds.

via Nairobi - Naivasha - Kericho - Tororo - Kisumu - - - -

General

English & Swahili are the official languages here although there are numerous local tongues. 'Safari' is the Swahili word for travel.

As is nearly always the case in Africa, tribe is the most important part of a persons identity.

The currency is the Kenyan shilling.

Kenya encapsulates most people’s perception of Africa – on the up side, this means the stunning beauty of the landscape from mountains to coast, abundant wildlife, idyllic beaches, a rich and varied history, and diversity of tribal peoples. On the down side, that perception includes unmanaged population growth, corruption in high places and urban violence. Roads are often in poor condition with tarmac strewn with potholes. The up side still wins in most peoples minds and rightly so.

The Equator runs through Kenya north of Nairobi dividing it into northern and southern hemispheres. Southern areas are usually quite lush with Plantations and Dairy Farms; in the north are the arid lands near Lake Turkana suitable only for goats and camels.

Climate varies considerably according to the place where you are. Nairobi is a surprising 6000' high and so has cold nights in the winter months (May to August) but warm/hot dry days throughout most of the year. December, January and February are the hottest months. The coast is hot and humid throughout the year.

Route

We leave Arusha, cross over the border at Namanga to in Kenya and on to Nairobi, we enjoy a group meal at one of Nairobi’s most famous restaurants, Carnivores.

Popular excursions in Nairobi itself are to Karen Blixen's house ('Out of Africa' ) and the Daphne Sheldrake Animal Orphanage & Giraffe Centre.

At Nakuru we can choose to visit the Game Reserve within very easy reach of the town - it is mainly known for its vast shallow soda lake which provides suitable breeding conditions for thousands of pink flamingo and best appreciated from the viewpoint at Baboon Cliffs. The Reserve is also home to Project Rhino which Truck Africa supports (see Booking Form - all contributions gratefully received).

The lake is part of the Rift Valley system with many species of bird-life and from where we visit Hell’s Gate National Park - one of the only Parks to allow walking or cycling within its boundaries. We hope to have an opportunity to take a boat excursion to nearby private Game reserve of Crescent Island to wander freely on foot among giraffe, gazelle, zebra and wildebeest. Then round off the day with a cream tea on the green lawns of Elsamere, once the home of Joy Adamson who became famous after hand rearing lion cubs - as immortalised in the book and film 'Born Free'.

One of the main things dictating our movements at this stage is the need to organise Gorilla Permits in advance. This avoids a possibly long wait on site. Specific dates are allocated so the itinerary around Uganda and Kenya then has to be fitted in with that. Thus the chronological sequence of the places visited as described may vary quite considerably in practice.

The alternative is to proceed just over the Rwandan border where the waiting lists are low but there is a higher cost implication because of the need to obtain Rwandan visas.

Depending on time, we can then either loop into western Kenya via Kisumu and the beautiful tea plantation area.

via Tororo - Jinga - Kampala - Kabale - Kampala - Bujagali - border

General

English is the official language and is spoken pretty well everywhere. Along with the main African language, Luganda.

Currency - the Ugandan shilling. Since the elimination of the black market and the introduction of foreign exchange (forex) bureaux, Uganda has become one of the more expensive countries in East Africa - though still much cheaper than the UK.

With regard to its history we can do no better than to quote from the Lonely Planet" Before independence, Uganda was a prosperous and cohesive country, but by the mid – 1980’s Uganda lay shattered and bankrupt, broken by tribal animosity, nepotism, insanely corrupt politics, mass murder and military tyranny. Despite the killings and brutality, Ugandans appear to have weathered the storm remarkably well".

Nowadays Uganda is remarkably stable and travellers are drawn by its beautiful mountains, exceptionally friendly peoples and of course the Mountain Gorillas - because of the unrest in eastern Congo, Uganda has become the main place in East Africa to see them. (Although Rwanda has recently opened up again - see note below)
Uganda is about the size of Britain. Its small-scale arable farming & coffee industry is significantly reliant for irrigation on Lake Victoria and the Victoria Nile. However, the worrying spread of water hyacinth, which is choking waterways, has wide-ranging implications for agriculture and the country's ecology.

The bulk of the country enjoys a tropical climate tempered by altitude. The hottest months are December/ January and the long rains start in April.

The staples of local cuisine are maize meal, beans & bananas. There are some pretty good curries to be had in Kampala though.

Route

We find ourselves crossing the Equator again (yes, water does drain clockwise on the north side and anti-clockwise on the south) and travel via Jinga and Kampala to Katatunga with its panoramic views over the Ruwenzori Mountains (the Mountains of the Moon). Then a scenic drive further westward through the terraced hills of Kigenzi (the so-called 'Little Switzerland' of Africa) to Uganda's highest town, Kabale.

The gorillas are found in the south-west of Uganda in the Bwindi Impenetrable Forest and Mgahinga National Park close to the Rwandan & Congolese borders where as many as half of the surviving mountain gorillas in the world are said to live. It is a 2 - 4 hour trek from the base camp to locate the gorillas and an hour or so watching them. The family usually consists of one Silverback - a mature male standing at over 6', and a number of females. These spend their time chewing leaves and leave it to the restless youngsters to provide the action! A telephoto lens will almost certainly not be required - we get far too close for that! It has to be said that this is one of the most unique and special wildlife experiences in the world. But it is sobering to think that their vulnerability means that we may be the last generation to have the privilege of seeing them in their natural habitat.

Returning, we rest up at picturesque Lake Bunyoni, a huge expanse of water surrounded by terraced hillsides. Just the place to relax - or hire dug-outs to paddle over to some of the tiny islands in the lake.

We retrace our steps to Kampala where we can hit the markets and sample the music scene in Kabalagala or Kisametente districts. Kampala itself is a veritable buzz of activity - the sheer confusion of the huge & sprawling taxi-rank is mind-blowing! Then follow the shore of lake Victoria back east crossing the Owen Falls Dam at Jinja. Here lies the source of the White Nile, the object of many 19th century exploratory expeditions.

We camp in view of Bujagali Falls where we have the option of a day's white water rafting. A unforgettable experience - grade 5's a plenty. At the beginning of the year (when we are there) the volume of water probably makes it superior for thrills to the Zambezi! All in all a good day out with drinks thrown in at the end!

Then back into Kenya.

via Tororo (border with Uganda), El Doret - Nakuru Nairobi - Nyeri - Isiolo - Marsabit - Moyale

Route

After Isiolo we move into the orbit of Mount Kenya - this is the 2nd highest mountain in Africa (after Mt Kilimanjaro) and its snow peak can be seen from miles away first thing in the morning (before the clouds gather to mask its presence). On to Nyeri on the fringes of the Abedare Mountain range, a place kept lively by the tribal mix and open-air markets. An Equator group photo is a 'must'!

We set out to Moyale in a convoy of mixed vehicles which takes us on a rather bumpy road through to Marsabit. This is set in the forested foothills of Mt Marsabit and is thronged with an amazing mix of colourfully costumed tribes-people - Rendille, Samburu, Boran, & Turkana to name but some. A favourite campsite is Lake Paradise at the National Park but this depends on road conditions at the time as it is located up a steep track.

via border - Gondar - Bahar Darr - (Lalibela) - Debre Markos - Goha Tscyon - Addis Ababa - Shashemene - Wendo - Yarello - Moyale

General

Amharic (the official language), Gallegna, Arabic, English, Italian & French are all useful! Keep an eye out for the fabulously complex Amharic typewriters (236 characters)!

Currency is the birr.

Formerly the rather mysterious isolated feudal empire of Abysinnia, this country seems always to have appealed to the imagination of Europeans - romantically seen as the land of Prester John and the Queen of Sheba. Moreover it is unusual in the context of the African continent.

For example, it is the only country in Africa that avoided colonisation except for a brief Italian Occupation in the 1930's. It is also unusual for its rich Orthodox Christian heritage, which the Ethiopians maintained even when all its neighbours embraced Islam in the 7th century.

Ethiopia is dominated by a high central plateau, cut by deep gorges including the Great Rift Valley. The dry season is September - March; it’s hot by day but can be quite cold at night.

The Rastafarian cult has its roots in a deification of Ras Tafari - who became Emporer Haile Selaisse of Ethiopia.

Route

We cross the to the border from Kenya to Ethiopia at Moyale. Its then a straightforward run (as far as the road allows) via Yarella In Wondo Genet we pause for a welcome dip in the hot springs. The road continues hilly notthward past Shashamene.

Continuing north we call in at Addis Ababa for a ‘city fix’ and can find plenty of souvenirs in the shape of Coptic Crosses, 'Queen of Sheba' cloth paintings and hand-embroidered clothes. The city has one of the largest open-air markets in Africa known as the Mercato. At the National Museum may be found the skull of 3.5 million year old 'Lucy' found in the Danakil desert in 1975 (so-named, the story goes, because 'Lucy in the Sky with Diamonds' was playing at the time they were casting around for a name). These finds and those in the Omo Valley to the south and in Olduvai Gorge in Tanzania suggest that the Great African Rift Valley is the place where early hominids became man.

Moving on you can wander up to the Asheton Maryam Monastery with great views of the Ethiopian Plateau. The road takes us south over rocky terrain to Debre Markos and later we stop to visit the important Monastery at Debre Libanos.

We can't take the truck up to Lalibela but internal flights there are inexpensive and well worth it. This is a complex of 12th-century churches, hewn straight out of the bedrock so that their roofs are at ground level. All eleven rock churches were built within a century, apparently with the help of angels! Generations of priests have guarded the treasures of ornamented crosses, illuminated bibles and manuscripts.

It is nearly a two hour drive to nearby Blue Nile Falls but "worth the dust and the rattling around to get there". Known locally as Tis' Isat, the Falls are about 400m wide and immensely impressive as they race into the narrow gorge 50m below. The Blue Nile eventually joins with the White Nile at Khartoum to become one entity.

The road to Bahar Dar is very rocky - and very hard on tyres. From here we can take a papryus boat out onto Lake Tana, the source of the Blue Nile, to visit some of the 37 scattered islands, many of which are home to monasteries built as long ago as the 11th century. On the island of Daga, the mummified remains of several monarchs lay in the crypt of the Monastery - including those of Emporer Fasilades - responsible for isolating the kingdom from the outside world for more than 200 years.

Winding through villages where the children all come out to stare – once again the truck is the centre of attention! Wayside snacks are almost always injera (a sort of foam-rubbery bread) and wat ( chilli sauce).
We creep down the hair pin bends of the Blue Nile Gorge - here about a mile deep.

One of the last places we reach before crossing into Sudan is Gondar the capital from 1632 until 1886 and known for its almost medieval European castles and royal ruins. It is a reminder that architecture signals cultural difference as much as in an language or dress.

via - Gallabat (border) Gedaref Wad Medani Khartoum - Omdurman – Meroe - Dongala- Wadi Halfa

General

Arabic is the official language with English being fairly widely spoken.
It is the largest country in Africa and is ten times the size of Britain.

Currency is the Sudanese dinar but until recently was the Sudanese pound. The Sudanese still tend to refer to the pound with great potential for confusion!

The black inhabitants, known as Nubians, were seen as the source of slaves and labour for the Egyptian Empire. Modern Sudan straddles the dividing line between the Muslim north and Christian and animist south. When the Islamic government introduced sharia (Muslim law), over the whole country, hostilities erupted and armed conflict is unhappily still a feature of life in the south.

At face value the Sudan has little to attract visitors compared to the glories of some of its neighbours; the landscape consists of miles of sun-baked desert in the north and flooded vegetation (for much of the year), in the south.

But it is this very remoteness that makes it so memorable. The first time we used this route , we travelled for weeks without meeting anyone who had ever seen a tourist and have experienced overwhelming friendliness and hospitality ever since. When asking directions, it is commonplace for someone to hop in the cab to give personal guidance ( no question of money changing hands). That summarises Sudan.

Climatically, the best time to visit is between November and February/March.

Route
We follow the Blue Nile from the border of Ethiopia We pass the Gezira cotton region to Kassala a market town overlooked by Sugar Loaf Mountains through the farming towns of Wad Medani to Sennar, with the land becoming drier as we re enter the Sahara Desert.

In Khartoum where the Blue & White Nile join, Nearby Omdurman is the site of the famous battle of 1898 where Gen. Kitchener's forces defeated those of the Mahdi leading to the joint rule of Sudan by Britain & Egypt until 1952. The Omdurman Bazaar is famed for its handicrafts and gold street - there is also the weekly Camel Market and every Friday afternoon Dervish Dancing is performed at the Farouq Mosque in honour of the revered Hamed El Nil. The heat in Sudan makes sight-seeing thirsty work - it is prohibited to import alcohol but marisa and duma, locally brewed beers, are available as well as watania, Sudanese 'sherry'. Otherwise go for the fruit juices especially kakadi, a thirst-quenching soft drink made from hibiscus.

Just to the north of Khartoum at Meroe, are the pyramids & tombs of the Napatan kings who briefly controlled parts of Ancient Egypt - hieroglyphics and all and particularly impressive at sunrise.
We drive across the Nubian Desert sands through friendly villages on the Nile. From Wadi Halfa we take a ferry across Lake Nasser to Aswan in Egypt

via - Aswan - Luxor – Cairo - Dahab

In Aswan we visit the High Dam & Philae Island Temple. Luxor, we visit Karnak Temple the Colossi of Memnon & Valley of the Kings & Tutankhamen's Tomb on donkeys. From Luxor, we take the overnight train to Cairo where we spent a few days to look at the great pyramids in Giza and the immense collections of the Cairo Museum.

Back on the train to Aswan to collect the truck then it's up through Hurghada and across the Sinai Peninsular to Dahab and a few days to relax on the beach of the Red Sea.

via - Aquaba - Amman – Damascus

This is one of the best places to go scuba diving in the world. From there it's an overnight ferry to Jordan and into Wadi Rum, and memories from 'Lawrence of Arabia' then a quick dip in the Dead Sea before heading up to Petra, then across the border to Syria. Here we see crusader castles and the myriad of things to buy in the many souks of Damascus and Aleppo. From Damascus we also spend a day in Lebanon, a chance to see Baalbeck Ruins, the Temple of Jupiter, the Peace Memorial and then onto Beirut. Heading out of Aleppo and leave Syria

via - Cappadocia - Pamukkale – Troy - Gallipoli - Istanbul

We enter Turkey with its olive groves and sweet baklava. Heading into Cappadocia we visit the fairy tale land carved by the weather into the volcanic ash. Try a Turkish bath and some belly dancing whilst you're here. Then to Olympus to visit the Chimera Eternal flame and the Turquoise Coast at Kasich’s now off past the limestone curtain of Pamukkale and to Selcuk and the ancient city of Ephesus, before we spot the wooden horse at Troy. From here we cross to Europe and stop at Gallipoli to pay our respects, before ending the trip in Istanbul, not Constantinople! From Istanbul the adventures can catch the Orient Express back tot London.

Africa is an unpredictable continent. We do not have a fixed itinerary so please treat the information given as a guideline only. Although our information is written in good faith at the time of printing, our route may vary at any time due to weather, politics or road conditions.

Of all the trips we run this is the most likely to have a change of route due to local conditions and visa requirements.